While the Indianapolis restaurant scene has dramatically improved over the last few years, I still can't help but feel that it lacks character. You can get an excellent meal, served by an efficient wait staff and pay too much for wine in any number of fine dining establishments. But, are they memorable experiences? Not really. Don't get me wrong; I don't expect memories every time. I just really enjoy finding those unforgettable, unique dining experiences. The "only the best" attitude at Bern's Steak House in Tampa, the Italian neighborhood feel of the old Rudy and Rosa's or the clubby atmosphere at St. Elmo's before they expanded are examples of what I mean. Those were memorable dining experiences. Last week we found a new one right under our noses. The Classic Kitchen in Noblesville scores high in both the memorable and unique categories.

The Concept
As we left Classic Kitchen, Linda observed that she felt like she had been on vacation. We only seem to find interesting and unusual dining experiences when we travel and here was one in our own backyard. Chef / Owner Steven Douglas Keneipp has created his restaurant vision in an uncompromising and creative style. And it's not for everyone. This is a menu without a beef or pork dish and a wine list that has more white than red wines. Probably not the kind of place to take the boys for a business dinner, but your wife will love it. If Uncle Fred wants a big steak, drop him off at Ruth's Chris on your way to Noblesville; he won't understand this place. This is an intimate restaurant with only 11 tables, where lunch is served Tuesday through Saturday and dinner is served only on Friday and Saturday nights.

The Wine
My first clue that this was definitely not a Steak House came when we were offered an aperitif menu that included such foo foo concoctions as Champagne with raspberries, Mimosas and something called a Lillet Blanc. Deciding that this was no different than ordering a drink with an umbrella in a Chinese restaurant, I ordered a Kir, white wine flavored with French Kir made from black currant. Very tasty, but probably not what I would order at Ruth's Chris. The wine list is short, of good quality and fairly priced. It does lean very heavily toward white wines, but complements the menu. We almost went with the Argyle Pinot Noir (about as red as the list gets) when Steven brought out a Bayliss & Fortune Zinfandel and a Geyser Peak Syrah that he keeps around for his white wine impaired customers. We choose the Syrah and it proved a good match for entrees.

The Meal
Steven runs the dining room very personally. He greeted us at the table and took the time to explain every dish in intricate detail. While his style is slightly flamboyant, Stephen exhibits an unbridled passion for cooking. From the range-fed veal (the only kind he said he could serve with a clear conscience) to special tiny pecans, he is very serious about finding and using only the freshest and finest ingredients.

The menu offered three appetizers, a Pate Masion, a seasonal seafood dish and soup dujour. We opted to share the Seafood Prelude, a penne pasta with Norwegian salmon, peas, zucchini and tomatoes in an Alfredo sauce. Since we had seriously considered soup, Steven appeared with a small cup of his Vidalia onion vichyssoise, since we simply "had to taste it." Both dishes were outstanding. The Alfredo sauce was used lightly and enhanced the fresh vegetables perfectly. And, while cold potato soup has never been one of my favorites, the Vidalia's turned the Vichyssoise into some very tasty soup. This was followed by a very nice mixed lettuce salad (included with the meal) with a Maytag blue cheese dressing and warm herb bread. Two other salad dressings are offered, but when you find real Maytag blue, it's hard to order anything else.

The five entrees included a poached salmon, chicken dijon, veal florentine, a crepe dujour and the "Chefs Whim" that changes weekly. Since I could do it with a clear conscience, I ordered the veal while Linda went with the vegetarian crepe dujour. Steven's attention to detail shines in the dinner presentations. Each plate came garnished with fresh flowers, herbs, and perfect, thin slices of pear and apple that had to have been cut seconds before the dish left the kitchen. My veal had been sautéed, then baked in a casserole with fresh spinach, cream and gruyere cheese - delicious. Linda's whole wheat crepe prepared with a ricotta filling, homemade tomato sauce and melted cheese more than met with her approval. The side of steamed vegetables was also perfectly prepared with a very light butter sauce and just a hint of orange. When we commented on the delicate flavoring, Steven went to the kitchen and produced a 12" Swiss citrus zester and demonstrated his zesting technique on an orange. Cooking lessons, no additional charge.

Dessert
At this point, we were pleasantly full. However, Steven is also passionate about dessert, so don't plan on leaving without it. The menu contained five decadent offerings as well as two other specials. His current project is to personally revive the popularity of the chiffon cake by baking them with every conceivable flavoring. I am embarrassed to admit that, instead of his fluffy chiffon cake, I choose the decadent turtle sundae. This melding of icecream, caramel and chocolate fudge was topped with tiny pecans that Steven says he buys in 100 pound bags from a special grower in Kentucky. Linda choose the banana cream Brulee that was caramelized tableside with a miniature gas torch. We topped off the three hour dinner with perfectly brewed Hawaiian Kona coffee and a resolution to begin the Wine Guy's diet on Monday.

Conclusion
Quite an experience... And, at $125 plus tip, quite a bargain (using the Indianapolis Steak House scale). Steven is a unique and inventive restaurateur who knows how to create a memorable dining experience.

June 21, 2000