Most Italian wines are seldom labeled by grape varietal, but instead by geographic origin. Modern European Union regulations (the word combination modern and European being a true oxymoron) have only served to perpetuate the mystery for anyone unfamiliar with European wine regions. As a result, Italian regulations tend to stratify wines into fixed classes of perceived quality. As in France, this creates a self-fulfilling prophecy for wine producers. For example if you make wine from the Sangiovese grape in the zone of Tuscany, you must be within the region of Chianti to be called a "Chianti." But, you can never aspire to be a Chianti Classico unless you are within the physical boundaries of the regulated Classico region within Chianti. Does being grown across the valley make it better? In every vintage?
Italy is divided into 20 wine zones, which are the same as their political regions. Within those regions, Italian law further designates four classifications of wine quality based upon its place of origin. Furthermore, within these areas there are strict rules about what grapes you must use to qualify to use that place name. Look for one of these classifications on every bottle of Italian wine.
DOCG - Demoninazion di Origine Controlla e Garantita
This means regulated and guaranteed place-name - only 17 of these designations exist. For instance, Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino are both DOCG regions in Tuscany where the wine is made primarily from Sangiovese grapes.
DOC - Demoninazion di Origine Controlla
This means regulated place-name - 286 of these place name designations exist. Take for example the Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella DOC. It is a wine made primarily from Corvina grapes, by the Ripassa method in the Valpolicella region located in the zone of Veneto.
IGT - Indicazione di Geograficia Tipica
These are table wines with a geographic place of origin on the label. These tend to be broad regional designations - 128 IGT designations exist. The Di Majo Norante is an IGT wine from the zone of Umbria. You can tell that Di Majo Norante has targeted this wine for the US export market since they have actually used the grape varietal name on the label.
Table Wine
Table wine carries no geographical indication on the label except Italy. For example the Taurino Notarpanaro wine we carry is identified only as red table wine. It is made by the Taurino family from a vineyard named Notarpanaro in the zone Apulia, that does not lie within an approved geographic area.
Some other tips for reading Italian wine labels...
Azienda Agricola, or Az. Ag. for short, means Wine Estate, the equivalent of Estate Bottled in the US. An Azienda Agricola grows all its own grapes on the estate and makes the wine there as well.
Casa Vincola is a winery that purchases their grapes
Reserva - The good news is that the word "reserve" actually means something in Italy. Each geographic area has its own complex and often arcane set of rules: but in Chianti, Reservas are aged in oak and may be released only after two years at the winery.
Wine is made everywhere in Italy, much of it from grapes you have never heard of. As the importance of export continues to rise, look for more and more good varietally labeled wines to come out of Italy. And, while the serious students of Italian wine turn up their noses, we'll find more great bargains like the Di Majo Norante Sangiovese.
Remember the secret to Italian wine is that it is designed for food. So, use the wine magazines to help you decipher the labels, then try something you have never had before with dinner tonight.
Here is quick guide to Italy's three most famous wine regions and primary varieties of grapes used there.
From Piedmont
Barolo and Barbaresco - from the Nebbiolo grape
Lighter wines from the Barbera and Dolcetto grape like Barbera di Asti and Dolcetto di Alba among others
From Tuscany
Chianti, Chianti Classico, Chianti Rufina, Brunello di Montalicino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from primarly Sangiovese grapes.
Carmigano and other unclassified Super Tuscans are made from from Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon
Veneto
Soave, a white wine from Garganega and Terbbiano grapes
Valpolicella, Amarone and Bardolino from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes
