Linda often kiddingly tells me that we don't have customers, we have relationships. And, in many senses it is true. Seldom does a week go by that one of you doesn't share a dining or travel experience with us. Last week we were given a wine dinner menu from Emeril's new restaurant in New Orleans and heard about a great Bed & Breakfast in Healdsburg, California. The love of good food and wine is a common denominator among our customers. In fact, our 2000 + email newsletter subscribers share so many common interests that I suddenly thought "why not do a readers survey!" The problem with most surveys is that the demographic they draw from is too broad... places like Bravo are always chosen "best Italian" or "best winery to visit" will be Oliver. I think our readers are a pretty sophisticated crew - let's see what you come up with! Deadline for your entries is August 18th and we will share the results in the August 21st issue.

Just answer the questions you can relate to. Answer as many or as few questions as you wish. This survey is about sharing "quality" experiences not answering multiple choice questions. Remember - we need to know why!

Readers Survey Results!

After 3 weeks and almost 300 responses I have reached 2 conclusions... First, you are a pretty diverse, well-traveled group who love good food and wine. Second, If I tried to print every impassioned endorsement I received the newsletter would be 50 pages long! So, please understand if your response is absent. Here goes - we have 3 weeks worth of material and I hope you find it as interesting as I do. We're starting with local restaurants and moving on to travel (by far the most fun responses) over the next 2 weeks.

1. Where do you find Indianapolis' best pizza? And, what makes it good?

Bazbeaux - 1st by an overwhelming margin
Bazbeaux's pizza is fantastic. It's never greasy. The Roma is quite a treat with Ricotta cheese, prosciutto and green peppers. Try the basil pesto instead of tomato sauce for a nice change. Yum!

Bazbeaux in Broad Ripple. They have a great variety - something to please everyone. Good quality and ingredients. And their creamy basil salad dressing is killer! Also their pesto cheese bread!

Bazbeaux- The original and the best. The Berman's home recipe shared with the mass. Great crust, zippy toppings, affordable prices, funky settings both Broad Ripple and Downtown. Worth the wait--and they deliver in my neighborhood!

Bazbeaux Pizza. I think it is the not too think/thin crust and the CHEESE that makes it awesome. My favorite is the Quattro which has 4 different cheeses and a few other ingredients, but they have many varieties that I love.

The interesting toppings and combinations really set it apart. Also, the pizza is very consistent.

They cater to people who crave something other than "stuffed crust" and standard toppings. Plus, you can go vegetarian without being forced into the typical fare of mushrooms, olives, and peppers. The Quattro Formaggio on whole wheat crust is the best!

We had to leave off here or you would be reading Bazbeaux's praises all day! WG

Some Guy's - Second Place
Some Guys on Allisonville is the very best! The crust is the reason - and the roma bread is worth the two hour drive from Dayton, Ohio.

Some Guys Pizza in Carmel. The quality of the ingredients is what makes it the best. Homemade crust and slow simmered sauce, and only the best cheese and plenty of it.

Some Guys at 126th and Gray Rd. Very flavorful with plenty of variety....from vegetarian to meat lovers.
Donato's - Tied for 3rd
Overall, I tend to like Donato's Mariachi Beef pizza. It's like having both Mexican and pizza in one meal.

Daughter says: Donato's for the crust. We don't , we gave up on purchased pizza long ago (didn't the Surgeon General put something out on pizza being bad for you or something like that?) anyway we hardly eat anything that goes near a teenager.

Donato's in Broadripple. It gets delivered hot and on time. Toppings are abundant without asking for "double".

Pucchinis - Tied for 3rd
Locally, nothing is better than Puccini's Campfire pizza (sausage, sweet onion relish and blue cheese). Worthy of a good red wine.

Puccini's pizza because it is consistently hot, fresh, and has unique flavors.

Pucchinis is always good and convenient (salad's are very good, pizza dependable, and
their calzones and pasta add variety)
Union Jacks - Multiple votes
I LOVE Union Jack's covered pizza. Serious business with the basics - excellent crust, high-quality cheese, and good pepperoni & 'shrooms. Add some Bass Ale and you're good to go! I HATE foo-foo pizzas - defined as ANYTHING with sun-dried tomatoes in every thing they make. YUK!!! :-(((

Union Jack's in Broad Ripple - never leave hungry, wide range of choose your own toppings, and usually have something to take home for lunch the following day (best cold)

Pizza King - Multiple votes
In Zionsville At Pizza King in Zionsville & Crawfordsville. The toppings are what makes it the best. The cheese is always melted just right and I find it the best pizza to reheat whether it be the oven or the microwave! It's the only pizza we eat!

In Middletown Pizza King! Cut into small pieces and with generous portions of ingredients, Pizza King is hard to beat. I first started eating this pizza in my hometown of Middletown (Henry County) as a teenager and it seems just as good today. My wife and I once traveled for ten days throughout Italy, enjoying the wonderful food, but we felt at trip's end that Pizza King was still in the mix! [Just a note...the Pizza King in Zionsville uses a too-sweet tomato base and doesn't fit into the usual mold.] Head over to Carmel, or better yet, take an exciting trip to Middletown in Henry County!.
Zionsville Pizza Delivery- Multiple votes
ZPD because the pizza is great, the service is always on time, and the telephone order taking is personal

As for ZPD, I?m a sucker for local retailers and love the smart-ass retorts I always get when I call in my order. The owner cares about his product and he?s there to back up what he bakes.
Honorable Mentions
Greek's- Greeks Pizza in Fishers. Super greasy, super cheesy, super good!! I don't even like pizza but I would chew off my own arm to get to a slice of Greeks!
Luca's- by far the best crust in town, order one to go half baked, pop it in your preheated oven on a pizza stone and its pretty darn good.
Sinclair's - In Noblesville is the absolute best. They use fresh ingredients and offer more unique toppings than you can imagine.
Uno's - We like Unos for a great Chicago thick pizza. The crust is what makes this pizza.

Also: Zio's on 96th Street, Neon Johnnys, Yukon Jack's, Georgio on the Circle

2. What is your favorite casual Indianapolis area restaurant when you're paying the bill (most entrees under $20)? And, what makes it good?

R Bistro - First Place
R Bistro has an incredibly diverse menu and features fresh Indiana produce,meats, etc. The ever-changing menu keeps things interesting. Prices range from $15 - $20 per entree'. There are some entree's that run a bit higher, but you can always find things below $20. The location is perfect for a night on the town as you can continue your evening at one of Massachusetts Avenue's great bars/lounges such as Rathskeller or Old Point Tavern.

R Bistro (888 Mass Av). Hands down. It is a bistro to love, constantly changing menu, emphasis on fresh and local, not a lengthy wine list, but well thought. Small, but oozing with character and charm. Finish with Hubbard & Cravens coffee in a French press. Wow.

The menu changes weekly, the ingredients are unbelievable fresh, taste is exquisite, and the wine selection is good and not overpriced.

Cobblestone Grill - Second Place
The CG has a very nice assortment of entrees - all consistently well prepared. Some very imaginative special offerings and nice track record of constantly improving service, food quality, and hospitality since they opened.

One of my favorite's is The Cobblestone Grill - good food, good wine, good friends-it's like going to Cheers!

Mama Corolla - Tied for Third
Mama Corrolla's is our favorite. Their food is excellent and not over-greasy like the Bravo-type places we've been to and with more flavor and variety than the Olive Garden and other chains. Also helpful is the adorable old house the restaurant is in- very nice setting!

I really enjoy Mama Corollas,especially in the summer on the patio for food and atmosphere.

The Pidge - Tied for Third
Our favorite Indy dining experience, regardless of price, is Zionsville's Pidge. The reasons are numerous: innovative dishes exquisitely prepare, comfortable and friendly atmosphere and service, changing menu (although the downside to this attribute is the Asian pear salad is no more) and no pretensions.

We're very happy dining at The Pidge. It's very intimate . . . but the floor does creak. ;-) Feel the food is very high quality and each entree is lovingly prepared. Entrees are adventuresome and the menu changes quarterly. Wine list could be a little more robust.

We reviewed the Pidge the first week they were open...WG
http://www.grapevinecottage.com/Grapevine/Pages/AR_Pidge.html

Bravo - Multiple Votes
Bravo- solid Italian food; great salads and wide variety to entrees; very reasonable wine selection with fair prices

The Pawn Shop Pub - Multiple Votes
Pawn Shop in Broadripple for outdoor seating. You can always count on great service and a great beer at Pawn Shop. The menu is packed full of good pub grub and they are quick to accommodate a special request. The Sunday Bartender makes a great Bloody Mary and they are always the featured drink special on Sundays.

Schmee's - Multiple Votes
We find ourselves at Schmee?s on 86th Street at least once a month. Nice menu, food is uniformly good, new layout allows for more diners yet didn?t destroy the ?neighborhood feel? of the place.

Yatts - Multiple Votes

On College Avenue near 56th Street. Yatts is a Cajun restaurant with a host of different items offered each day. The atmosphere is very casual (order at the counter, then your plate is brought to you). $5.50 for any entree or mix two for $6.00. Great seasoning and a variety of spicy sauces available to make your mouth burn.

Yatts at 54th and college. Huge yummy portions of Cajun cookin' by friendly, animated owner Joe. $6/meal!

Broad Ripple Brew Pub - Multiple Votes

Honorable Mention

Amici's - SE corner of New York St and Park St. We've followed in here from two previous locations since we first discovered it in 1987. Little has changed since Hank and Josie Bayt went to Bloomington. The bread is still to die for, spectacular crust, soft, chewy center. The seafood saute salad over pasta is my standard. Occasionally the silverware matches, and the glasses usually remind me of the ones we got at the Esso station with a fill-up, circa 1969. The wine list is nothing to write home about, but we still love the charm of the place.

Amalfi's - The stuffed red pepper appetizers are fantastic. The entrees are authentic Italian. In addition, you get GREAT food and service without giving up your first born as payment.

Bonge's Tavern - Bonges Tavern - (close enuff to Indy) By far best before dinner atmosphere
(bring own drinks, chairs and sit outside in parking lot), and inside is a experience to behold, food is not main reason for going but is always excellent.
Wine Guy Note: Bonge's is in Perkinsville about 30 minutes north of Castleton. We were there last week and the food is great and the wine list has improved 500% over the last year or so - just be prepared to wait for a table....

Peppercorn's in Monticello - Wonderful food, presentation, friendly service,
excellent wine list, Yolanda the wine and martini girl gives great recommendations, reason-able prices, worth the drive.

Snooty Fox in Nora - It's a comfy place, and I know I can always get a filet stuffed with blue
cheese, fried smelt or hash browns because the menu never changes. The bar is pretty well stocked, and they have some pretty good wines at a reasonable markup.

Tavola di Tosa's wine bar - The food is exquisite, the wine list is fabulous (especially since they added French wines), and if you stick to the tapas list you can eat well and be treated well for a "weeknight dinner" amount of money.

Also (we could only print so much commentary) Aristocat - Bistro 936 - Cafe Nora - Cheese Cake Factory - Chilis - Deeter & Gabes - Deeter's - Kona Jacks - La Margarita - Marco's - Rick's Boat Yard - Saham's or Saham's Place - Three Sisters Cafe - Tejano Joes - Iria's

3. What is your favorite Indianapolis area fine dining experience when you're charging it to the company (most entrees over $20) And, what makes it worth the big bucks?

We had a tie for first here, within a couple of votes anyway. It's just interesting that the Sullivan's supporters were so passionate about it and the St. Elmo's folks were like "St. Elmo's - Where else?" WG

Sullivan's - Tied for First
First of all, we are never disappointed by the wine. Although I can't say their wine list is the best in town, it is certainly extensive enough that you can always find a winner. The steaks are typically top notch (we always get filets, so I can't comment on the other selections) and they are not dripping with butter as is usually the case at Ruth's Chris. And I can not say ENOUGH about their broccoli. This is by far the best broccoli in town! You don't even really need the hollandaise sauce, but its yummy too. Most of their other sides are delicious too (we've tried most of them). Oh, and don't order a salad because the iceberg wedge/blue cheese/tomato salad that comes with the dinners is huge and its very tasty! [I need to add this little tidbit - there was only one time that I was disappointed with my steak. It was overcooked and tasteless. I let the waitress know, and not only did they made me another steak, the manager on duty brought it to me along with the rest of the dinner I had ordered so that I could "fully enjoy the dining experience all over again at home". Now that's service.]

Sullivan's at the Crossing. They understand that service is as important as the food

Sullivan's Steak House is consistent and delicious. Their lettuce wedge with fresh bleu cheese makes the cocktail sauce at St. Elmo's look like it came from a can. I know they are a chain but they are just plain good. The service is stellar, they use U.S.D.A. Prime Beef (I'm a bit of a food snob when it comes to good beef... it happens when you travel and someone else is paying the bill), and they don't fry it in butter to make it taste good.

WG Note: You can see what we thought of Sullivan's when Linda and I reviewed it back in 2000 at http://www.grapevinecottage.com/Grapevine/Pages/AR_Sullivans.html

St. Elmo - Tied for First
St. Elmo's. Always have the BEST steak and the shrimp cocktail is great once you get used to the spicy cocktail sauce.

I like St. Elmo's. Love the Shrimp Cocktail, love the salads and the meat is always done perfect.

St. Elmo's. You can't beat a slab of meat on a grill, and the wine list is superb.

Something Different - Second Place
Something Different- Luxury on a plate. Chef Steve offers beauty for the eye and the palate. Exceptional waitstaff. And a wine list that really tries to work with the food. The restaurant itself feels like dining in a cool, sophisticated living room.

Peter's - Third Place
Peter's. I love the staff, I love the atmosphere--it is not too formal, but special, and I think the food is excellent, and unusual, and not what I'd make at home (or could make...)

Peters, Keystone. Superb food & presentation, great service, expensive, expensive, expensive.

Dunaway's - Multiple Votes
The food is absolutely delicious, the drinks are just right, the ambiance is unbeatable and the staff is on the ball!

Palomino - Multiple Votes
I like Palomino for business entertainment. The menu is varied, the cocktails are creative (good for generating small talk) and the wine list has entries at many price points. The waiters have tried everything on the menu and can help indecisive guests, and as I recall, special requests for items formerly on the menu are readily prepared. Plus, its not too formal or stuffy.

Hands down, Palomino. The staff is knowledgeable, friendly and attentive. Decent wine selection. Every entree I've had there has been wonderful. I love the grilled mushroom salad, the gorgonzola cheese fries, the crab cakes, and the cream of mushroom soup.

Tavola di ToSa - Multiple Votes
Excellent representation of fine Italian dining. Portions somewhat on the lean side for the price. But, always consistently excellent quality. Wine list moderately priced and obviously heavily leaning toward Italian. Very knowledgeable wait staff, especially with wine selections. Haven't yet experienced the gorgeous new wine bar. Service is excellent.

WG Note: Want our 2 cents worth on why this is one of Indy's best restaurants?
http://www.grapevinecottage.com/Grapevine/Pages/AR_Tavola.html
http://www.grapevinecottage.com/Grapevine/Pages/AR_Tosa%20Cafe.html

Bijou - Multiple Votes
Bijou in Lebanon. Great service, excellent food prepared with a personal touch & excellent presentation, good inexpensive wine list. The atmosphere and the food make it worth the drive and the price.

Bijou in Lebanon on the square. The French influenced selections are prepared very well. She's a very good chef. The atmosphere is intimate, casual elegance, and the service is good/attentive, but still friendly and not stuffy. Everything from appetizers, soup, salad, entree's and deserts are high quality. The meats and fish are cooked as the should be/as ordered. The wine list is good, if not extensive, and the pricing is very reasonable. Wine by the glass is provided in a small carafe with the wine glass, so it is a generous pour, but not overfilled in a single glass so there's no room for swirling. He also encourages us bring our own wines for our special occasions (small corkage charge, which he's never actually put on our bill... but then we let him taste the good stuff). This has become our "special occasion" restaurant... plus, we often eat in the Tap Room during the week nights, where you can order from the Bar menu very well prepared meals from braised chicken thighs, to blacken fish, to the Bijou Burger for very reasonable prices (most under $10), when we're not in the mood (or in the money) for fine dining.

Here's a P.S. to my survey that I already sent a few days ago...I completely forgot to "sing the praises" of our own Bijou, right here in Lebanon! Wonderful, attentive service.. fantastic wine list...great gourmet food. If you haven't checked it out yet, please do so. You can't believe that such a fine restaurant is right here in Lebanon, In!

WG Note: Find out more about Bijou at...
http://www.grapevinecottage.com/Grapevine/Pages/AR_Bijou.html

Keystone Grill - Multiple Votes
Keystone Grill, hands down. As a twenty something diner with an expensive palate, I'm accustomed to the staff in many upscale restaurants treating me with a little disdain when I'm not donning a suit. Keystone Grill's incredibly knowledgeable staff are guaranteed to treat you like gold regardless of dress, age, taste, etc., and they are always willing to answer questions.

How can you argue with great salmon AND great scotch??

Ruth's Chris - Multiple Votes
We say Ruth Chris for real steaks and fine service (Saint who?)

Petersons - Multiple Votes
We've been very well served at Peterson's (96th St. @ I-69). Very nice bar with experienced barmen, elegant setting, very attentive service, and well-prepared food. We don't charge it to any company and we pay the fare. The entrees are very diverse, tasty, and high-quality. Feel we've been very well taken care of and there is very fine attention to detail when we've been there. Very extensive, if somewhat overpriced, wine list.

Honorable Mention: Morton's - Mikado - Glass Chimney - Woodstock Country Club - Restaurant at the Canterbury - Classic Kitchen

And on a final note... What da ya think - are these folks from New York or Chicago? WG

I haven't found a decent upscale restaurant in Indianapolis that warrants the price of over $20 for an entree'. I've tried Peters, Ruth's Chris, St. Elmo's, Amalfi, etc. They just don't cut it. I've sworn off fine-dining and stick to the exceptional casual dining restaurants which almost always earn my money. I'll be interested in seeing the response to this one.

4. What Indianapolis area restaurant has the most over priced wine list? Who has the best list?

I know it's bad taste to ask negative questions but I have a bit of a burr about restaurant wine prices here in Indianapolis. Actually, we didn't get a lot of comments here, just the name of the choice... WG

As expected Dunaway's, Morton's, Shula's and Peter's garnered the most votes for most overpriced and St. Elmo was overwhelmingly voted best list. Here are a few of the comments.

Palomino is definitely a candidate here. We typically feel that we pay about 3x what the bottle is worth (although we love the food).

Worst AND most overpriced Morton's & Shula's. Terrible wine service at Morton's.....Best list has to be St. Elmo's

For the most obscenely overpriced winelist, it has to be Dunaway's downtown. But, I'd probably list Morton's a close second

Any restaurant in Indy! Can't stand to get gouged repeatedly over a $8-12 dollar store cost bottle of wine.

Overpriced-- Peter's; Best list for the food-- R Bistro. Chef Regina's food is amazing and the wine list is devised to complement her fresh, seasonal, creative cuisine. AND the list is an incredible value. Plenty of gems.

5. Where is your favorite Oriental restaurant? What makes it better than the plethora of sticky windowed, strip center Chinese joints we seem to be cursed with.

P.F. Changs won this one hands down, we have eaten there twice and I still think they may just be the best of a bad lot... It's my newsletter so I get to disagree! You can see what we thought in our 2001 review... http://www.grapevinecottage.com/Grapevine/Pages/AR_Changs.html

P.F. Changs - First Place
Contrary to other reviews, I really like PF Changs. Their Kung Pao chicken is outstanding--not too heavy or sticky

PF Changs - Much better flavor and ingredients than the strip mall Chinese joints. I have to admit that for the flavor of Chinese food; when the chef at the Keystone PF Changs is on his/her game - WOW (of course, we like it spicy - mmmm schezuan beef, chang's chicken and schezuan asparagus mmmm); when he/she is not though, it is only slightly better than most delivery Chinese. I have not had ANY other Chinese in this city that I have enjoyed.

I don't like selecting chain restaurants, but for Chinese, I do enjoy PF Chang's. Although we have had some inconsistent dinner seasonings (very hot one time, mild the next), I enjoy their menu and have not had a bad dinner there.

Thai Cafe in Broad Ripple - Second Place
Thai Cafe --good atmosphere authentic food

I can recommend the Thai Cafe for authentic, spicy (not Indiana spicy - this is Thai spicy!) yummy Thai cuisine. Suffice it to say that if you like Thai, and you can handle bizarre decor, check this place out. Of course, this one is in a strip mall - don't know if the windows are sticky, but you can get take out if the atmosphere is less than appealing!

Five Spice Cafe at Geist - Third Place
Without a doubt- Five Spice - Can't wait until they open on 86th street for a closer drive!

Best oriental food is Five Spice Cafe, but pricey

Yen Ching - Multiple Votes
Yen Ching - 9150 N. Michigan (also in Carmel and east side). I just returned from China and Yen Ching's is most authentic that I've found.

Forbidden City - Multiple Votes
Forbidden City on Keystone at 65th; Great takeout on a Sunday nite-- Great dining in with those high backed booths. Intimate setting-tasty food.
Honorable Mention

Phoenix Dragon in Bloomington. It is the stickiest Chinese restaurant that you'll ever experience, but the food is great and cheap. Believe me, you'll like it, if you can stand the dirt.

Oriental Inn on S. Arlington Ave. Dumpy looking outside, extravagant decor inside, awesome food.

Mamma's Restaurant serves the best Korean food around. Located on the Eastside on Pendleton Pike, you have a choice of grilling your own deliciously marinated meats or ordering specialty dishes. The staff will help you decide and takes the time to explain each dish. The dinner comes with 12 side dishes that range from smoked fish to kimchi. It's a real treat to get foods that are not only tasty, but not ruined by spending way too much time in the deep fryer.

Cheng Du in Willow Lake Shopping Center at 86th and Township Line. This is no quasi-Oriental dining experience. It's authentic and the real thing!

6.) Where is the best Sushi in the Indianapolis area?

Ocean World - First Place
Yes, the decor is a bit outdated, but does that really matter when what you want is the freshest and tastiest sushi rolls on earth? I've had sushi in Hawaii on many occasions and believe me, Ocean World is equal if not better.

Ocean World-- what it lacks in atmosphere and wine it makes up for in quality sushi.
H2O Suishi - Second Place

H2O in Broad Ripple!! Their tuna tartare is heavenly.

H2O Sushi on Broad Ripple Ave. Not "classic" sushi, but wonderfully French-inspired and inventive.

Sakura - Third Place
Sakura on Keystone Ave. No Question. Hard to get into, but there's a reason- this place is awesome!!

Mikado - Multiple Votes
Mikado is hands down the best sushi and sashimi restaurant that the Indy area has to offer.

Mikado is a bit overpriced on meals, but the sushi is great. A great selection.

Sansui - Multiple Votes

Sushi is my absolutely favorite food and we've eaten it everywhere (including Japan) and I vote for Sansui in Carmel. The Sushi id great, the prices are reasonable and the atmosphere comfortable.

Wasabi - Multiple Votes
Wasabi on 82nd near Allisonville. Besides myself a colleague who is Japanese spending one year in Indy as I did in 2.5 in Japan agrees. Fresh fish but as in all US the rice does not quite have the right consistency.
Honorable Mention: Daruma, Ichiban Noodles, Kona Jack's, Ichiban

We also received two: "Yuck!" and one: "Don't you mean bait?"

Out of Town Restaurants

7. What restaurant makes visiting Chicago worth fighting the traffic? And, why is it worth it?

Arun's Restaurant - is simply one of the most unusual and enjoyable dining experiences anywhere in the US. It's very pricey, but worth it. Arun's is a Thai restraint on the North side that serves a fixed price [$80/person] 12 course Thai tasting menu. The dishes all have familiar Thai spices and tastes but in unusual and unique combinations. Think Thai food meets nouvelle French presentation and preparation. The highlight of my last trip there was soft shell Crabs with Thai chili sauce and a beef curry dish to die for [the beef was so tender it must have been marinating 3 days]. As I said, pricey, but if you want a unique experience well worth it.

BIN 36 - Allows you to sample wines in a comfortable setting - we usually just do appetizers and flights of wines. We enjoyed this place so much we wrote a review. Check it out at - WG
www.grapevinecottage.com/Grapevine/Pages/AR_Chicago%20Wine.html

Chicago Chop House - Without a single doubt in my mind, the Chicago Chop House! DEAD MEAT and LOTS OF IT! Waitresses who've been there 25 years and call everyone "hon". REAL drinks from the bar with REAL BOOZE and LOTS OF IT. Great wine list - that won't break the wallet. Lotza potatoes, real veggies (none of those sissy California "zucchini and squash" cheap-o sides), and, did I mention . DEAD MEAT and LOTS OF IT !!!

Crofton on Wells - Comes as close as any. Extremely unique menu. Oyster "shots", roasted carrot & caramelized onion soup, great fish. Great experience. www.croftononwells.com.


Gene & Georgetti's Steak House: You feel like you are in a mafia movie when you go in there. Food is great with huge portions. I agree, it's like an Italian St. Elmo's, a very cool place... - WG

Geno's East - for the unique Chicago Pizza style and down to earth atmosphere.

Oh yeah!! If you can find Geno's, it is one of the most awesome pizza joints around. It's hidden down a side street off the Miracle Mile - their sausage pizza is heaven!

The Green Dolphin Street - worth the cab ride, the food was interesting and fun, the caviar is wonderful, the people all beautiful and trendy and the jazz!!!!!!!

Lou Malnatti's Pizza - Only the Cubs are worth fighting Chicago traffic (followed of course by Lou Malnatti's Pizza on Lincoln Avenue. The Cubs have brought us consistent teams since 1908 (the last time they won the World Series) and Lou Malniatti's since 1963 (thick or thin it's the spices which hit the spot.)

Marche - (Pronounced Mar-shay) It is in the warehouse district. The food is wonderful and reasonably priced (for Chicago). For two of us with tip for dinner it was $100 (no wine, but we each had 2 cocktails). The atmosphere is upscale artsy/eccentric. I LOVE it!

Mashed Potato Club - And, why is it worth it? original restaurants and shopping......recent fave restaurant The Mashed Potato Club where else can you have 100 different kinds of mashed potatoes.

Pine Yard - There is only 1 we know of that?s Pine Yard. We know the owners and it?s been consistently voted one of the area?s best Chinese restaurants. We have gone there for over 30 years and have never been disappointed. The owners are getting out soon. We helped set up shop when they first started about 1974 and they are the real deal.

Portillo's - When you are looking for greasy, cheesy Philly steak with peppers - it is worth it!! And of course the Chicago dog is my favorite!!!

Pete Schmidt's - After a Chicago Cubs game, I hit Pete Schmidt?s in ?Da region? for lake perch & frogs? legs.

Rosebud on Rush - Great atmosphere and certainly what one expects in Chicago, food is sooooooooooooo good, and the service rocks.

We do love Rosebud on Rush, and the one thing all Chicago restaurants have that Indy doesn't is REAL BREAD!

Volare - Best Italian food ever. There was this risotto dish that was absolutely to die for. Plus, the atmosphere is a bit mafia-esque, so watching large men wearing large rings greet each other with cheek-kisses and straight faces makes for an entertaining evening.

8. What dining experience have you had that was most worth traveling for?
I think this is my favorite - we have so many suggestions that I have regionalized it

EAST

New York:
La Vineria - NEW YORK, NEW YORK, NEW YORK. Food is always a big part of every trip into the city. My favorite recent discovery is La Vineria on West 55th Street. Very small, but the food is terrific and the wine list (heavy on Italian reds) has just what I am looking for.


I most enjoy Barbetta at 321 West 46th St. Barbetta was started in 1906 and is the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the city and it still owned by its founding family. It has an incredible menu of northern Italian food and a charming courtyard garden setting which one can choose. Utterly enchanting.


Cafe des Artistes - 1 West 67th St. in New York. On the upper West Side, is small, cozy, and serves wonderful continental food. The clientele is interesting. I once wondered who was bumping my chair at dinner and turned around to come face to face with Andy Rooney!

Washington D.C.
Citronella - in Washington DC--steak that melts in your mouth and other incredible food however has probably also been my most expensive meal!!!!

MIDWEST

Bloomington, Indiana:
Irish Lion - Although only an hour away, Bloomington's Irish Lion drags me down 37 at least three times a year. They always have very fresh oysters on the half shell and the mutton pie in a bread bowl will satisfy a hearty appetite. We tried their Marlin special on our last visit and were very pleased. And I Challenge anyone to find a more traditional Irish pub smell anywhere in the mid west! Irish Lion builds a great pint of Guinness every time.


The Snow Lion - To me, traveling for food is a relevant term that means going out of my usual sphere for something special. For instance, I?ll ?travel? to The Snow Lion in Bloomington for Tibetan (Love those noodles).

Michigan:
Tapawingo - Amazing restaurant just North east of Traverse City in Michigan. An old home on a lake, literally in the middle of the Michigan woods. Fresh food- unbelievable wine cellar. Worth every expensive cent.


Boat Club - Traverse City, Michigan, and had a lovely sunset along with a fabulous dinner and wine, and maybe a gimlet, at the Boat Club restaurant, along Mission Peninsula. The blue water, and white sails of boats, makes an unforgettable dinner companion.

The Montague Inn - in Saginaw, Michigan. The rooms are great, and the food is even better; very upscale dinners...


Illinois
Papa Del's Pizza - I drove 100 miles to Champaign Illinois for Papa Dell's Pizza. You have to wait 45 minutes for the pizza to cook. Worth the wait. Worth the travel. Finest pizza I have ever eaten. Thick style, plan on eating one or two pieces at most. Very filling. Very good.

Wisconsin
Heaven City - If you are ever in Southeastern Wisconsin - visit Heaven City in Mukwonago. A wonderful Frank Lloyd Wright inspired mansion with a sordid past (used to be a brothel). The food is very eclectic - spiced pumpkin soup, or how about Seared Marlin Cordon Bleu with Domaine du Sac Hollandaise, oh and don't forget the hazelnut soufflé for dessert. I was lucky enough to grow up around the corner from this place. I have never come across a more interesting menu!

SOUTH

Florida
Crabby Bill's - Jan's favorite place is Crabby Bill's in Indian Rocks Beach, Florida; just south of Clearwater on the Gulf Coast. A real family atmosphere. Long picnic tables with checkered table cloths. You line up outside to wait for a spot at the table. The food...The best oysters on the half shell. They shuck they to order. With a cold beer, it is great. Excellent selection of seafood. Inexpensive. But worth the trip. We end up there every trip we make to west-central Florida. How far would we go for Crabby's? Once, we drove 3-1/2 hours from Ft. Myers Beach just for lunch and then drove back. OK, it was a miserable day for the beach but the food, fun and atmosphere (?) were worth the drive. Crabby's is already penciled in on our thing to do when we go to Florida for a long weekend in October.

Salt Rock Grille - in Clearwater Florida. The freshest seafood I have ever eaten and the first (but not the last!) time I have ever had grilled crab legs. They were sliced in half (lordly I would never want to run into a crab that large!) then grilled. Magnificent!!!!!!!!!!!! The restaurant was modern deco and had a pleasant atmosphere.


Joe's Stone Crab - Miami Beach. Original home of stone crab, and still do them by far the best of any restaurant.


Louisiana:
Nola - We recently had dinner at Nola (one of Emeril's restaurants in New Orleans). We have eaten at most of the top restaurants in N. O. including the Commander's Palace and Brennan's. The dining experience at Nola was outstanding. We were there last month had the "Taste of...; the five course chef's special. Excellent. What really complimented the dinner was the wine that accompanied the dinner. The wine steward had selected excellent wines to compliment each course. He personally served each and discussed the region, why he had selected it, etc. Just like reading "The Wine Guy" a-mail each week! We will go back again.

SOUTHWEST

Arizona:
Lon's - at Hermosa in Phoenix--outdoor dining, steak that melts in your mouth and an extensive reasonable wine list......

La Locanda - in Scottsdale, excellent Italian Osso Buco and a full page of risotto entries


New Mexico:
Joseph's Table - in Taos, New Mexico (funky-chic, tiny,candle-lit, eclectic food with unique presentation and impressive wine list.)


Rancho de Chimayo - Chimayo New Mexico ( blue margaritas, authentic food, pleasant courtyard dining)


Tulips - Probably Tulips in Santa Fe, NM. Relaxed atmosphere with fantastic food.

WEST

Hawaii:
David Paul's - restaurant in Lahaina on Maui was excellent. The best dinner we have had.


Sing Ha - in Honolulu - some of the best Thai food I've ever had plus a nice wine list. Some really great curries and some nuvo cuisine, as well.

Plantation House in Kapalua Maui, and Mama's Fish House in Paia, Maui.

INTERNATIONAL

Tokyo:
Little Lima Steakhouse - Tokyo, Japan. Small, family run. 20 people maximum. Kobe Beef. Best beef in the world served as the culmination of a unique presentation. Like Chicago, I wouldn't necessarily travel there just for this, but I might.

Canada:
The Inn at Bay Fortune - in Prince Edward Island, Canada - Not only can you get a 5-star meal for a great price (exchange rate is pretty good these days), but the Inn is nestled into a small bay just off the Atlantic in the North East providing a simple, yet romantic feeling. All food prepared is from the island (hence the reason it's only open in the summer), and enhances the atmosphere of the meal. Okay, I have to agree 100% with this one - there is a chef's tasting menu that can be paired with a wine tasting menu and is a dining experience that teeters on a new religion - plus Prince Edward Island is one of the most beautiful places in the world during the summer.


South Africa:
Traveling to South Africa and dining in several little Capetown restaurants, bringing our own bottles of wine we bought at the wineries earlier that day, and trying to decide between the filet and lobster entrees . . . which were priced about $12 each. ;-)

Travel

9. What has been your best Midwestern Bed & Breakfast or small Inn experience?

10. What is your favorite Midwestern weekend getaway destination? What's the attraction? Where should we stay? And, where should we eat?

The answers to these two were so similar that we have combined the answers - WG

Indiana
Carriage House - Gone to many east and southeast. The best Midwestern is the Carriage House in Madison, IN. You have your own Carriage House so very private. You do go into the caretakers home for breakfast, but they are very nice and personable. We've gone there for about 10 years. You can walk to the river and walk into town to enjoy the antique shops. WRITE IN: Most romantic hotel in the world: The Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, Tanzania


Indian Oaks - Spa It wasn't the Inn so much as the restaurant (naturally). At the Indian Oaks Spa in Chesterton, you can get a good massage and stay in a fairly decent if unexciting room. In Chesterton itself, however, is a restaurant in a small house called Lucretia's that was so good, it made us regret having driven
into Chicago for all the previous dinners during our stay. Unbelievable.


Scholars Inn in Bloomington Wonderful breakfast, very friendly service. Great rates.

The Story Inn in Story, Indiana, in Brown County. Rent one of the cottages (there are six). No telephones, television, radios, or clocks. Wonderful gourmet food at the Story Inn restaurant. We stayed there last month with our children (ages 4 and 10) and everyone had a wonderful time. Children played on a tire swing in the
backyard, everyone took walks together, great family time.
from the website:

The Story Inn As for Indiana getaways, a Fall visit to the Story Inn (in Story, IN) was a surprisingly comfortable respite where you could fight the hordes of Nashville, take a tour of Lake Monroe or Brown County then retire to a small dot of a place for peace & quiet in the Hoosier hill country.

The New Harmony Inn in New Harmony. The historic ambience of New Harmony is charming and beautiful.
The New Harmony Inn captures the spirit of the place. Be sure to eat at The Red Geranium restaurant and at Cooper's Kitchen and Catering. Wonderful gourmet dining, fresh ingredients, diverse menus, great presentation, and beautiful historic surroundings.


Lanham House - We stayed in Madison, IN at the Lanham House Bed and Breakfast. We had an upstairs room that had its own little porch that looked out over a lovely garden and street. Really delightful for a bottle of wine and a quiet evening!)

Terre Haute? - Over the past 8 years that we've been married, we try to do little getaway weekends in Indiana...we have rarely had a bad experience anywhere. We've had great weekends in Terre Haute (believe it or not!), Richmond (a little pizza place there that has a real double-decker bus from England!), Culver...a hotel that overlooked the lake...Bloomington (stayed at the Union on the campus and ate at Nick's), Madison (lots of history...the Garden Tour in April and May is a great time to go, but reserve at Christmas time). Our
only rule is...never eat at the big advertised places. Always find the little out-of-the-way spots...they are the real gems.

Michigan
The Sherwood Forest - My favorite is The Sherwood Forest in Douglas, Michigan It's an elegant Victorian B & B with great owners, but we prefer to rent their guest cottage next door. It's one block from the lake, quiet neighborhood, access to bicycles, great dining and wineries nearby, but with the cottage we can cook our own gourmet meals and drink all the wine we
want without driving! For a more romantic, elegant get-away, the Belvedere in Saugatuck is beautiful.

The Montague Inn - in Saginaw, Michigan. The rooms are great, and the food is even better; very upscale dinners...

Wickwood Inn - Best selling cookbook author, Julie Rosso of The Silver Palate Cookbook and her husband Bill Miller, have created the exquisite Wickwood Inn, in the village of Saugatuck, on the shores of Lake Michigan. Most recently, Wickwood Inn achieved an "extraordinary to perfection" average rating, thus, was ranked with the "Top Fifty Small Resorts, Inns and Spas in the U.S." Zagat's Review reconfirms numerous others about Wickwood; that it is among the very best getaways in the world.

The Wickwood Inn in Saugatuck Michigan. The woman who owns it wrote The Silver Palate cookbook. She serves delicious appetizers each evening and breakfasts where you will ask for the recipe. The rooms are all different. A very romantic retreat.

Saugatuck / Douglas - For just a few hour's drive, it's definitely the Saugatuck- Douglas Michigan area. The beach is wonderful, there's fine dining, cute wineries, shopping, and the artsy-funky attitude I like..On your way there, I recommend lunch at Shu's in St. Joseph, or Clementine's in South Haven. For a wonderful dinner in Saugatuck, you can't beat Toulouse. It's right on the corner downtown, little quiet County French menu, Wine Spectator award winning list, wonderful desserts. I highly recommend visiting Saugatuck/Douglas in the winter when there are thousands of tiny white lights in the towns, no crowds of tourists, and some great shopping bargains. Autumn is great too.

Traverse Bay / Leland Peninsula / Elk Rapids / Torch Lake areas While a 7-hour trek might not be everyone?s idea of a getaway, I have no problem driving to upper northwest Michigan for the scenery, serenity and serendipitous dining to be found in the Traverse Bay/Leland Peninsula/Elk Rapids/Torch Lake areas. Spring and fall are fantastic times to visit as the vacation crowd (AKA ?Fudgies) have left for the season, leaving behind a plethora of great little restaurants, lapping waves, clean air breezes and spectacular golf courses. There?s an Italian bistro in Burdickville, a honest to Emil Cajun place in Elk Rapids, the famous Bluebird in Leland and the Bower?s Harbor Inn on Old Mission Peninsula in Traverse City that all offer great dining in the relaxed atmosphere of a vacation destination that?s catching its collective breath before the next tourist onslaught.

Illinois
Chicago - Magnificent Mile, baseball, unlimited supply of things to do. Stay at Le Meridien or The Omni on Michigan Ave. Eat at Blackbird. Chicago of course,what is not to like? It is the ambiance, the local flavor, and did I mention the shopping, the fresh fish at Riva's, the dessert at Catch 22, the entree at the Renaissance hotel... The coffee and ...at the Corner Bakery, the drinks and view at the Signature room. The Walnut room at Marshall Field's, Mr. Bigg's... I really like just about everything there.

Chicago - Michigan Avenue.Intercontinental Hotel...Italian Village, Gibson's & Bin 36

Wisconsin
The American Club in Kohler, Wisconsin. It's a Mobil 5 diamond resort, with a 5 diamond restaurant in the resort (along with 2 other really good restaurants). It also has 4 of the best golf courses in the country that are connected to the resort, including 2 with great views of Lake Michigan. They also have a spa and other outdoorsy things. The bathrooms are great, as they use the hotel as a showcase for Kohler fixtures.


Wisconsin State Fair - We have been partial to the state parks & camping or staying at the lodge. I love staying at the Indiana State Parks - off season you can often get some very very reasonable rates at the lodges. As the fall begins to arrive, we do like some of the different state fairs; we are particularly fond of the Wisconsin State Fair (of course, we stay with relatives); but for Midwestern Food experiences, the Wisconsin State Fair has to be a top contender - CREAM PUFFS to die for, roasted ears of corn, beer gardens, bratwurst, Fried Cheese Curds.... healthy? no. But once a year won't kill us (hopefully).

Missouri
Lake of the Ozarks - Missouri, about 2.5 hrs south of St. Louis, 92 mile long lake, multiple resorts and boating......Lodge of the Four Seasons is the only place I know enough about to recommend (we usually stay at my parents house) The Potted Steer --is known for homemade salad dressing, fried whole lobster and steaks.....the wine list dates back to the 70s and is a good 30 pages long and very very reasonable!

Tennessee
Smoky Mountains - Go to the Smokies. Knoxville is only 6 hours from Indy. Stay at Hot Springs, NC (on Hwy 25 between Knoxville & Asheville). Soak in the hot springs, and stay & eat at the Bridge Street Inn. Go rafting / hiking / biking the next day, rinse and repeat

Wine Country, the Caribbean
& thoughts on Michigan Road
(angry thoughts)

11. Best place to stay in the California Wine Country?

My brothers place in San Francisco - Would he like guests? WG

Foothill House - Enjoyed the Foothill House in Calistoga- warm with yummy breakfasts and beautiful rooms/suites. Still looking for a favorite but Hotel D'Amici in Calistoga was reasonable $150/day and you got fireplace, sitting area, queen bed, bathtub for 2 with spa rain shower, very quiet and within walking distance of many restaurants and spas.....downside was not centrally located in valley and eating in the city of Napa was 30 minute drive----lets talk wine country food for a minute too: fabulous Cole's Chop House (Napa), Jonathan Ash (Sonoma), Rutherford Grill (Napa--eat the ribs!)

The French Laundry in Napa Valley. WG Note - I had 6 people mention the French Laundry but no one even tried to describe it ???

Fanny's
We stayed at a B & B in Calistoga about 6 years ago, called Fanny's. Driving up on 29 that day, the temperature got hotter and hotter. It was 108 when we stopped at Beringer. We went on to stop and taste at Sterling and Clos Pegase, then continued on to Calistoga. Found Fanny's without a problem and parked in the street in front. To our horror, we noticed the open second story windows-no air conditioning. Of course, we from the sticky Midwest couldn't imagine a night without AC. We went in, met the proprietor and carried our bags upstairs. Every surface, even the quilts on the beds and the furniture felt hot to the touch. (Everything was above body temp!) Dreading the sure to be long night ahead, we walked around town. Found a Mexican restaurant that was air conditioned and settled in for several Margaritas and Mexican food. We hoped that the evening would cool. When we finally left, it had started to cool down. Went back to Fanny's and found that the proprietor had left us a bottle of wine. Sat out on the broad front porch and sipped as the night cooled further. By the time we went to bed, it was 60 degrees and wonderful. Slept well and had one of the most wonderful breakfasts of our lives the next day, with warm muffins and fresh figs and dates. Hard to say which I liked better about CA, the wine or the dining.....

Heritage House - There is probably the best food and accommodations anywhere at a place called the Heritage House, in Little River, CA, just down the coast from Mendocino. A 5-star restaurant with an outstanding wine list, and individual cottages/condo. on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific. It was the location of the movie Same Time Next Year, with Alan Alda. Absolutely spectacular.

Vintage Inn - Had a wonderful stay in Yountville in Napa Valley at the Vintage Inn which had fireplaces in the rooms, good-sized little kitchenettes in the rooms, a lovely pool, nice hot tub, and very well-maintained grounds. Really great place - even got a n/c upgrade when they didn't have one of their lower-cost rooms available! Very accommodating staff. URL http://www.vintageinn.com/index.html

Vintners Inn Santa Rosa (Sonoma Valley)

Auberge du Soleil - Very expensive but gorgeous. If you can't stay there at least try to eat in the Restaurant.

The Just Inn - located on the grounds of the Justin Winery, Paso Robles. Talk about luxury and privacy (only 3 suites). They have their own chef on premises along with some of the exceptional past wines available to guests. www.justinwine.com has pictures of the beautiful grounds.

Silverado - Place to stay in Wine Country - Silverado in Napa. Great accommodations and food. Golf course and tennis courts for those so inclined. Close to many wineries.

Villa St. Helena - My wife and I attended the Napa Valley Wine Auction in June 1988 and stayed at the Villa St. Helena, a bed and breakfast that had been featured in House and Garden magazine. The Villa sat on a hillside overlooking the village of St. Helena and one could reach it only by a long lane through a field and up the hill. I recall that we had to get out of the car, at one point, and open a farm gate in order to proceed. The Villa had once been a place where film stars vacationed in seclusion in the 1930s and 1940s. Truly a remarkable experience. I don't know if it is still operating as an inn.


We had to throw our 2 cents in... Here is the Wine Guy and Linda's Favorite Place
The Sonoma Mission Inn
We have made three visits and spent part of our honeymoon at the Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa attending the annual Sonoma Valley Wine Auction. The lush, wooded grounds accent the pink stucco exterior of this wonderful 100 year old Spanish-style inn. Built over the Boyes Hot Springs where wealthy San Franciscans have been coming to "take the waters" since the 1890s, the Olympic size pool is still heated by the hot springs - a fun swimming experience. The modern Spa facility offers a nice variety of services and pampering for the guests. And in true vacation-decadence form, it's a great place to get up in the morning, put on the big, white fluffy robe provided to you and stroll across the manicured grounds to the spa to enjoy a massage (or Linda might substitute "facial" here). The dining options at the Inn are also excellent. The Big 3 Diner is located on the corner of the Inn's grounds and was a favorite for breakfast (best omelets I have ever eaten) and lunch. Located adjacent to the elegant lobby is the Restaurant at Sonoma Mission Inn, with praise from Conde Nast Traveler and Gourmet. Although the wine list has been honored with Wine Spectator's "Best of Award of Excellence," we appreciated the California-tradition of allowing us to bring in our own wine and pay a corkage fee. A little pricey, but good. For more information, check out their website at: http://www.sonomamissioninn.com/

12. Where did you have your best winery visit experience?

Napa Valley Wine Auction - In my earlier response, I mentioned the Napa Valley Wine Auction as a great event. This evening I re-read a journal that I kept of our entire trip in 1988 to the Wine Auction. It is an interesting, detailed account of the wine, food, and wineries that we experienced. I would be happy to share it with anyone interested in attending a future Napa Valley Wine Auction - If your are interested drop me a note and I willl give you his email address - WG

Napa Valley Wine Auction - We both thoroughly enjoyed the entire experience of the Napa Valley Wine Auction. You visit wineries which collaborate with area restaurants (mostly San Francisco) to present wine and food together. We had a delightful lunch with wine on the lawn of Mike Grgich of Grgich Hills winery.

I'd have to say Meeker in Healdsburg. Although I was not a fan of the wine - I have never seen anyone have more fun making and marketing it. The co-owner, who reminded me a lot of Janice Joplin (enough said), was running the shop that day - a partially renovated old bank, the teller windows were still up. There was some variety of '70s music blaring from the back room as she sauntered up to the counter. She sampled the wines with us and told us all the stories that went with them. Definitely a must visit - if only to meet the owners.

A tie between Carmenet on Moon Mountain in Sonoma and Del Dotto in Napa. Carmenet's cave tour demonstrated some of the different methods of blending while tasting from barrels and showed what the blending wines would do for the finished product. Del Dotto demonstrated the different taste that different types of barrels would impart to the same wine.

Clos Pegas Winery. We were the only one's for the tour. Saw the caves and the art work...very cool! We also stopped at Preston Wineries on a whim. We picked up a gourmet lunch at a gas station (seriously) and stopped at Preston. We bought a 1/2 bottle of wine, sat on their deck which overlooked the vineyards. We ended up having the other 1/2 bottle then drove to Mendocino (slowly). We stopped in the Anderson Valley at Navarrus <sp> and picked up some GREAT wine as well.

Schramsberg tour in Napa. Informative/interesting tour about champenoise method of making sparkling wine, tasting at the end, beautiful property.

Thomas Family Winery, Madison, Indiana. Steve Thomas offers great wine, fab food, traditional music all in a turn of the century Celtic pub setting. Great mood- great food- FUN people!

Heart of the Vineyard, Berrien Springs, Michigan. Just over the Indiana border. Rick Moersch makes fab wine/brandy and offers round barn tasting room. VERY fun experience!

Definitely South Africa. Probably at the Delayer winery. Location,, location! Perched on a hilltop with a valley view, watching clouds bounce between two distant mountain ranges, sipping a delightful Chardonnay behind the lovely 80+ year old farmhouse/winery tasting room on a late summer balmy afternoon. Totally gorgeous.

In Napa/Sonoma, on Mt. Veered - Chateau Patella. Go up Mt. Veered until you make a turn and run smack into a rain forest! Huge redwood trees covered with Spanish moss, rain-swollen creeks, fog, follow the signs and climb the switchbacks until you ascend to the top and find Chateau Patella. Nice little tasting room at the top of a little hidden valley, every nook and cranny of micro-fields is stashed with little small-yield grapevines. Neat place. Also enjoyed the Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves. Nice tour of the methode champenoise process, storage caves, riddling racks, tasting room, etc. Lovely estate with GREAT views of surrounding countryside.

Love Hanna (Sonoma), Jordan (Sonoma), Lake Sonoma (Sonoma), Freemark Abbey (Napa), Prager Port (Napa) and of course Silver Oak (Napa and Sonoma)--you should really check out prager if you haven't, ports to die for, only sold at their shop, limited quantaties, fun place... also wonderful chocolate drizzle sauce

Coppola was the most interesting. He has a small movie museum on the second floor and the tasting room is beautiful. Gloria Ferrer has a stunning palazzo-like back porch that overlooks the vines. And someone brings you sparkling wine again and again, which makes just about any place worth being.

DeLormier in Sonoma - Relatively unknown wine. Good, inexpensive wine. Plus, they will ship all the wine you buy regardless of where bought it you buy at least a half case from them.

Ironhorse. Beautiful setting and they only do tastings by appointment so you get personalized attention.

Absolutely without a doubt, Ferrari-Carrano winery in Sonoma County. Admittedly, this could have had a little to do with the weather (beautiful,clear sunny day - of course, they are all like that) and the time of day that we went (morning, before the crowds), but there is no question that the landscaping and general beauty of the winery grounds was far beyond that of any other winery we visited while we were there. The winery is atop a hill that you must walk through colorful, carefully sculpted gardens to get to, and the view of the vineyards from the top of the hill is truly breathtaking. The inside is very comfortable and nicely decorated, and the tasting area was also quite nice. At least 4 stations with enough room for 2-3 people to stand comfortably without knocking in to one another. And the wines were not bad either! Unfortunately, I can not remember what we drank, but we did buy a bottle of one of their "chewier" reds :)


Again, our 2 cents worth.. Here is the Wine Guy and Linda's Favorite Wineries

Clos Pegase - I think our all time favorite winery for a touring and tasting has to be Clos Pegase. There is a old adage in Napa Valley that goes "If you want to make a small fortune in the wine business - start with a large fortune." Clos Pegase owners Jan and Mitsuko Shrem certainly fit the bill. The dramatic winery, designed by Princeton architect Michael Graves, as a "temple to wine," (trust me, it's much better than the Thompson Building he designed here in Indy - he must have had better inspiration) houses the Shrem's extensive art collection. Over 20,000 square feet of aging caves were dug into the chalk hill behind the winery where rows of French oak barrels are separated by alcoves containing priceless Greek and Roman sculpture. Even the grounds have become a sculpture garden filled with contemporary bronzes and marble antiquities. We recommend taking the grand tour that includes the caves. It is given daily at 11 am or 2 pm at no charge. Something about the Napa Valley and the wine business encourages people to indulge their passions. I just appreciate it when people like the Shrems are so willing to share the products of those passions with us. Great architecture, great art and great wine... seeing this the first time made me realize that making fine wine is not a business where the normal rules apply. Considering the investment, I am reasonably sure that Clos Pegase could become the most successful winery in Napa and still never break even. And I'm sure Mr. Schrem doesn't care! I wonder if the IRS lets him depreciate the art? Visit their web site at http://www.clospegase.com

Ravenswood - On the other end of the spectrum, the Ravenswood winery, just outside the city of Sonoma, knows how to have fun. Their motto "No Wimpy Wine" is emblazoned above the tasting room door. These are the guys who wrote the book on red Zinfandel, pioneering the huge, fruit forward Zinfandels that are so popular today. The only way to describe this place is "Fun" - stop at the tasting room and try their wine and buy one of their great tee shirts or caps. In the summertime, their chef, Tony Najiola, cooks up gourmet BBQ every Saturday and Sunday afternoon from 11:30 to 4:00. Come for the tour and stay for the cook out. They do one tour a day at 10:30 am by reservation only (call 888-669-4679 or 707-939-1960). Visit their web site at http://www.ravenswood-wine.com


13. What is your favorite Caribbean destination? What's the attraction? Where should we stay? And, where should we eat?

Anguilla
Hands down - Anguilla. The tiny little island of the most charming people and beautiful beaches. Never have I seen whiter sand or bluer skies. Postcard picture perfect. There is nothing to do on the island but relax - no shopping, no nightlife. Only secluded beaches and wonderful dining. Most people stay at Cap Julica or The Cuisanart - both are rumored to be fantastic. However, if you are going soon I would recommend the Sonesta Resort. It is a little farther away from everything and very secluded. The hand tiled entrance and extensive gardens are breathtaking. Unfortunately, they will be closing their doors soon (Ritz Carlton bought the land to put up a golf course). When we were there only 7 suites were occupied. We had the patio to ourselves for dinner and basically a private bar as well. We flew to Anguilla in June to be married on the beach - but changed our plans after staying there one night. Eating - give your pocketbook a break and take the 20 minute ferry to St Martin (food is about 30% cheaper than on Anguilla). Eating on the French side of the island is amazing. There are so many little places in Grand Case that serve excellent food. We had an intimate dinner after the wedding at La'Alabama in Grand Case. They have an extensive wine list (mostly French of course) and they serve the best Caesar Salad you will ever have. Make sure to check out the specials, as they are extremely unique and delicious. Their desserts are also sinful. There is also a Tex-Mex barbecue place just down the road - better BBQ ribs than in the states!


Aruba
Aruba has all public beaches, beautiful homes and real estate to see, and over 100 restaurants. Le Dome restaurant is amazing. The wine list is much larger than those at almost any US restaurant we've been to, and the food is impeccably prepared.

Bahamas
Hopetown, Elbow Cay, Bahamas. Great laid back experience. A real getaway on a small, lovely Caribbean
island. The native population is small and very friendly. The harbour at Hopetown is well protected and used by a large number of east coast US boats. This results in several very good restaurants so you end up with the
best of both worlds. A small, quiet laid back Caribbean island but still good restaurants. The best places are the Abaco Inn and The Harbour Lodge. Great fresh seafood (as you might guess).

Barbudas
An island that gets very little attention is BARBUDAS (not Barbados), a tiny, Brit island that harkens back to pre-timeshare/resort days with only two small hotels where you?d swear you saw Graham Greene in a jungle shirt. Miles of vacant beaches and no annoying ?Island Reggae? music to break the silence.

Grand Cayman
Grand Cayman! Scuba diving and snorkeling from out of this world! North End or 7 mile Beach. Try out the Lighthouse on North End. Even the smallest of restaurants are so good. The best jerk chicken/pork you can have! Definitely have to see the sun set at Rum Pointe! And venture to Smith's Cove - great snorkeling and swimming area.

Grand Cayman Island. Stay anywhere on 7 mile beach. The sand is the main attraction...and it's the cleanest of all the Caribbean islands.


Grand Cayman. Great beaches, snorkeling, diving, and weather. Easy to get there.

Grand Cayman-- Stay on 7 mile beach in a rented apartment NOT a hotel. Eat at Pappagallos, The Lighthouse, The Blue Parrot.

Well, so far it's Grand Cayman. The attraction is the beautiful water and the snorkeling. You should stay on the unpopulated end of the island at the North Side Surf Inn, which is a very pleasant, homey place with its own
restaurant and bar. (And it's reasonably priced!) It's far away from the hubbub of Seven Mile Beach, which is a good thing if you enjoy peace and quiet and a night sky that doesn't suffer from light pollution. Their food is good, and they are a short drive from Portofino on the East End, which serves a fabulous Sunday brunch and has a beautiful view of the Caribbean (and of the remains of a U.S. Navy supply ship that got stuck on the reef on its way to the Bay of Pigs invasion).


Jamaica
I loved the Tree House in Negril, Jamaica. It is one of the most romantic places I have ever visited. Although there are a plethora of great beach side outdoor restaurants serving curried goat and conch, Extabi is fantastic for finer dining. With an amazing view of the ocean, we enjoyed delicious made-from-scratch pina coladas and a terrific lobster Rockefeller.

Jamaica, beaches, Couples Negril, all inclusive, no kids, best food I've ever had at an all inclusive which are usually so so.....really cater to their guests, reasonable ($1000/person for one week including airfare)......

Mexico
Isla Mujeres, a small island off the coast of Cozumel and the Yucatan Peninsula. Still relatively undiscovered
but with the stunning beauty of the Mexican Riviera.- Again, in going through journals this evening I re-read my account of my first visit to Isla Mujeres during a study visit to Mexico during my junior year at Hanover College in 1974. One line read, "It was the most beautiful place I'd ever seen." Twenty-eight years later, I still feel the same!


Sint Maarten/Saint Martin
You already know my fondness for Sint Maarten/Saint Martin as nothing in my travels comes close to the restaurants of Grand Case, however a trip to Willard?s of Saba on the tiny volcanic spar of SABA (24 miles off the coast of SXM) is a wonderful delight. Check it out on the web and believe every word. This is a great place for a romantic getaway that includes a fantastic and eclectic Philippine/Thai restaurant that serves entrées I?ve never tasted anywhere else on earth. Not for everybody, SABA has a rain forest, world class scuba diving locations and perhaps the most in-bred populace in the Caribbean.

St. Maartin What's the attraction? 2 countries, shopping European flair on French side, RESTAURANTS, best dining the Caribbean Where should we stay? Le Petite Hotel Grand Case or sister hotel L'Esperance Grand Case And, where should we eat? French side Sabastiano's the best Italian anywhere and the
view and atmosphere is world class, on Dutch side DaLivio great day-in day-out Italian Osso Buco on Thursdays, Belgian endive salad a unique experience


St. Martin is also one of our favorite islands, you can see what we thought at... -WG
http://www.grapevinecottage.com/Grapevine/Pages/AR_StMartin.html

St. Barts
You must go to St. Barts. The principal attraction is how few people go there -- the Grand Saline beach is a full mile of brilliant white sand and even in February there are maybe 100 people on the whole thing. The
secondary attraction is the food -- it is all great French w/ a Caribbean spice twist. Try Maya's [French/Asian] Massai [French/African] Le Tamarin [French casual -- open air for lunch, with a parrot to meet] or Le Sapotillier [Haut French]. As for where to stay almost everyone stays in private villas that are for rent on a weekly basis at a reasonable rate [if you go with another couple]. If you want a hotel try the Hotel St. Jean on the hill overlooking the bay . . .

St. John
St. John --not crowded and touristy, beautiful beaches, cute little town, Caneel Bay is the bestplace to stay--a little piece of heaven with 7 beaches, etc.


St. John's - Stay cheap & eat local.

St. John's, USVI (75% National Park, non-touristy, fine dining, beautiful scenic vistas no matter which direction you look, coral reefs, sailing, etc. Rent a little jeep to get around. Forget wine, drink the local dark rum; at under $3 a bottle it's cheaper than beer, and smooth.

Everyone (Daughter included) picked St. John USVI - rent a house (same cost as condo) get a Jeep and have some fun. Best water, no crowds, no cruise ships and lots of beach. We traveled the whole island during spring break and the place was almost empty. We have beaches to ourselves and some the best snorkeling, sunsets and relaxation. Where to eat? Plenty of nice (and expensive places) but we cooked a lot for ourselves (rent the house) even brought some of our food with us.

14. What do you think might be the proper reward for the Contractor responsible for the Michigan Road construction project?

On suggestion of counsel we have omitted the replies that included death threats - There is some serious creativity here!

Let him sit in Seattle-area traffic every day for the remainder of his life. Seattle has about the worst traffic in the country and the drivers are pretty bad, making this a not-to-be missed experience. Then he can try to get a drivers license at the Indiana BMV

Jail Time?

Cement Galoshes

Tar and feathering is much too kind........

Make them drink only creek water, skunk beer, or white zinfandel for a term as great as the project takes.

I love to hear the rants. Last week I sat on 96 for over 20 minutes about 8 cars from Michigan rd. watching a very expensive loader just waiting for an inexpensive dump truck to show up. The contractor should be replaced and fined. The project is being so poorly managed it's criminal. If I had more time I'm sure I could come up with more creative "rewards". Can't wait to see what your readers send in.


Talk the city into starting large construction projects right in front of his house, his office, his grocery store... see how HE likes getting around in it!

Concrete overshoes set in White River beneath the 56th Street bridge. He will never drown as long as he can stand, but he will also never move.

He should be sentenced to drive south on Michigan Road from 106th St. to 86th Street and back all day long from 7AM to 9PM from now until the d!@#$%^&*( thing is done!


Oh, the contractor on Michigan Road must have connections with the contract award folks at the state. I cannot accept that the schedule in place on that project is typical. The lost productivity of our collective man-hours spent fighting that congestion is staggering.

Sentence them to one year of waiting for the lights (just like they did to us)

An all expense paid one way ticket to Afghanistan


Forced to invest in Enron and Tyco stock?


Reward for Michigan Road Contractor: Grrrr, Along with lifting his license and only allowing him to re-pave inner-city parking lots, I would make him sit in an un-air conditioned Yugo every morning and evening in hottest days of summer for 45 minutes with a Britney Spears tape playing at ¾ speed, while a dust storm of cement and debris swirls through his car. I would also delegate the DOT paper pusher who hired these yahoos to a new post of State Parks Port-O-Potty Inspector.

Prison time for stealing government funds? How about 3 months standing in land at Disney Magic Kingdom (then they can appreciate what a minivan fun of kids on Michigan road must feel like.

When the traffic lights malfunction (hopefully in January when it's cold as hell) make him direct traffic!

A warm case of Pabst Blue Ribbon and a lengthy torn-up detour on the path to the outhouse.

Have them direct traffic by the 465 overpass wearing a sign saying "This is my road construction project". I wouldn't think that they would last an hour.

And, a lone defender!
Scuttlebutt is that the contractor is pretty darned peeved with the Indiana Department of Highways because they promised him all the nearby buried fiber optic cables would be moved before he got started, and they weren't. As a result, the project is taking far longer than he planned and he's losing money. I'm just guessing here, but his proper reward may be determined by a court.

July-August, 2002