If you have not visited the old Fort Benjamin Harrison site lately, you will be amazed at the commercial development that has occurred over the last year. Foremost amongst that development is the new Kendall Inn & Conference Center, a 28 room Inn and meeting facility, and accompanying Theodore's Restaurant, all located in the former base hospital built in 1906. We were there for a wedding reception last Saturday afternoon and encouraged by the very edible appetizers, we decided to stay for dinner. The elegant dinning room was already booked for 7pm, but they quickly produced a white table cloth and dinner service and after some assurances that we were not likely to encounter smoke (and we didn't, until we were just leaving), we were seated alone in the very cozy lounge. The lounge, like the rest of the Inn, is done very traditionally with lots of dark wood, stained glass and marble. Owner and developer Charlie Kendall has spared no expense restoring the building to much better than its original turn-of-the century condition. Incredible attention to detail was apparent everywhere in the building from the high quality table service to the artwork and lamps. And all was done in keeping with the building's Theodore Roosevelt era theme.

The proof is always in the food and I must admit that I was a little apprehensive based on friends who had reported uneven quality of food and service during their first week's open. We are happy to report that whatever problems they were having early on were certainly not in evidence on our visit. With the exception of some sliced pears on the salad that could have been riper, both the food, wine and service were exemplary.

They have depended heavily upon Carroll Company distributors for their wine list with good result. Prices are slightly above twice retail but still reasonable compared to the gouging done by most downtown restaurants. While the white side of the list still contains the obligatory Kendall Jackson Chardonnay, the remaining 14 wines are a well-balanced group. The red side of the list is even better, with 18 diverse offerings, including such winners as the Cousino Macul Cabernet at $33 (WS 90 - $15 at Grapevine Cottage), the Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone at $26 (WS 89 - $13 at GVC) and our choice for dinner the MAK Cabernet Shiraz Blend at $41 ($19 at GVC).

We began with glasses of the excellent Hedges Fume Chardonnay at $7 a glass (WE 91, $11 at GVC) that paired well with my Fried Goat Cheese Salad, a very tasty combination of fresh greens, figs, sliced pear and almonds in a balsamic vinaigrette. Linda choose the slightly untraditional, but equally tasty, Onion Soup with Gruyere Gratinee, an understated blend of caramelized onion, chicken stock, garlic and herbs and topped with a Gruyere crouton. No, it wasn't covered with melted cheese, and was a very pleasant change from traditional "French" onion soup. The menu also contains 3 appetizer offerings and 5 salads ranging from $3 for a house salad to $9 for a Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail.

We were equally pleased with our entrees. My choice was the 10 ounce Peppered Strip Steak grilled to a perfect medium rare, presented pre-sliced and accompanied by, but not overwhelmed, with a very nice green peppercorn sauce. The twice baked potato, typically something I avoid because they are usually dry and crusty from the warming lights, was fresh and soft with only a light crust from the oven. Linda's Cider-Brined Pork Loin was presented on a bed of Red Chard with a sweet Bourbon Sauce and tiny fingerling potatoes. The brining made the pork exceptionally tender and the accompanying sauce was almost perfectly mated. The chard, not something we often fix at home, was an especially nice accompaniment. The entree menu included lots of choices with over 15 items ranging from Roasted Chicken with Morels in a Wild Mushroom Demi Glace at $15, to my Strip Steak selection or the Smoked Prime Rib at $29.

I really try to avoid dessert (and, yes I know I don't look like I do) but since Linda has known Charlie for years from her days in commercial real estate, when he visited our table and offered to buy us dessert, what could I do. The Strawberry Shortcake was perfectly executed from the fresh strawberries right down to the sweet crumbly biscuit that was just like my mother used to make with Bisquick. Linda's Key Lime Pie was appropriately yellow and very reminiscent of our last really authentic Key Lime at Portifino's on Grand Cayman.

All in all, it was an excellent experience. And, for about $122 before tip, a pretty good value too. Good food, good wine, well paced service and, in our case, free dessert - what more can you ask for!

And, on a final note, it really is not that far from Zionsville... On Saturday we took I465 to the 56th Street exit, then east about 2 miles to the Fort, left on Post road and you are there. About 25 minutes from Main Street in very light traffic.