Rarely does a week go by that I do not get a call for sulfite-free wines. The common complaint is that "the sulfites in red wine give me headaches." I find it hard to believe that so many people could be allergic to sulfites. Sulfite allergies are a fairly rare and serious medical problem that can not only be dangerous, but potentially fatal. I am sure that some of our medical customers could give us details, but I assume that when a visit to a salad bar or a hot dog could send you to the hospital, you have been warned about the sulfites in wine before you are old enough to drink it. An allergist told me that many people have reactions to histamines or phenolics, but blame it on sulfites. Histamines are a common allergen that are found in the skins of red grapes, but in very low levels. Phenolics are natural chemical compounds found in grape skins, stems and seeds. Red wines have larger amounts of phenolics than white wines.
Sulfite has three important functions in wine making. First, it has antiseptic qualities that kill the wild yeasts and bacteria that are present on the fruit. Second it has anti-oxidative qualities that help protect wine from oxidation. And third, it destroys the enzyme that causes browning in the juice. Without it our wine would be brown, taste like Sherry and be plagued by bacterial spoilage.
Sulfur dioxide has been used in the wine making process for thousands of years. There is evidence that the Romans used sulfur and I am sure they learned it from the Greeks. In fact, I would venture a guess that the use of sulfur in wine making probably dates back to a village somewhere in Mesopotamia where they were stomping grapes when a smoldering chunk of brimstone from the local volcano landed in the vat. "Hum, firestone make wine taste better - last longer!"
Last year I asked the winemaker from one of California's largest wineries using organically grown grapes why they didn't go all the way and make organic wine. His reply was "I don't make wine without sulfites. When I took the job, I made sure they knew that organic stopped at the winery door!" There are "organic" "sulfite free" wines out there that use other products like citric acids to make wine but I have yet to taste one that doesn't taste like battery acid. If you find one let me know...
March 5, 2003
I received a number of interesting responses to last week's article about the use of sulfites in wine. In fact, some were so interesting and funny, that I am devoting the this week's newsletter to the responses. The first is this beauty from Jennifer Rosen, wine columnist for the Rocky Mountain Post in Denver. Jennifer forwarded me a copy of this column she wrote about the topic last year...
Red Alert
by: Jennifer Rosen
Judging by my e-mail, an alarming number of you have quit drinking red wine because it gives you a headache. Do not go gentle into that good night! As inventions go, red wine ranks right up there with indoor plumbing, novocaine and the wheel. More than a great pleasure, it's been shown to prevent heart disease, osteoporosis, cancer, memory loss and memory loss. (Note to self: drink more red wine).
I'll bet people nag you, "Oh, come on, try a little. You're just being hypersensitive!" At last, you are vindicated, because now your condition has an official name. If you're one of those folks who gets a pounding headache, perhaps with nausea and flushing, within an hour or less of drinking even a small glass of red wine, you have Red Wine Headache Syndrome.
Since RWHS research has nothing to do with weight loss or baldness, and it's not sexually transmitted, it doesn't get much press. But, rest assured, scientists are working hard on your problem, and the latest studies conclude…that they haven't the slightest idea what's going on, which is a big improvement over when they thought they knew, and were wrong. Actually, there is hope for you. Let's start by busting a few myths.
First, the culprit is NOT sulfites. All wine contains sulfites, or SO2. For thousands of years, winemakers have welcomed its stabilizing effect, adding it at crucial intervals during vinification. Only America requires the ominous warning, "Contains Sulfites," if the level exceeds ten parts per million, which happens to be about the level you get if you don't add any, since SO2 is a natural presence on grape skins. That's why another label you might have seen, "No Sulfites Added," (italics mine) is a bit disingenuous. However, the point is moot anyway, unless you are one of the very few, severely steroid-dependent asthmatics who actually is sulfite-sensitive. If so, you react much more violently to dried fruit and many processed foods, because they have thousands of times the SO2 found in wine.
Second, it's probably not the histamines, unless your headache comes with itching, sneezing, shortness of breath and diarrhea. If so, red is indeed the enemy, since the devil is in the skins, which give red its color. Good news! Taking an antihistamine before drinking should prevent the reaction. Just make sure to choose a non-drowsy formula, if you want to remember the evening instead of being remembered as the one who slid under the table.
The latest theory is that RWHS is caused by prostaglandin, which certain people lack the wherewithal to metabolize. Scientists admit that it might be caused by yet another substance, probably something in the strains of yeast or bacteria found in red wine. But they vow to soldier on until they've cornered the enemy, despite the obvious strain of having to drink all that leftover red wine in the lab.
But, more good news! Former sufferers are getting results from prostaglandin-inhibitors, namely Ibuprophin & Nuprin, as well as the weaker, but workable, aspirin. Take them less than an hour before drinking and chances are no headache will develop. If you should wake up the next morning with a headache, what you've got is known as "hangover," a medical condition that definitely deserves more research.
Best bet is to test this preventative with just a few sips of wine. And since I'm not a doctor (I only play one in the bedroom with my husband) you should certainly consult your M.D. first.
So, now you, too, can be a wine snob, with your very own Wine Syndrome! When the conversation turns to MLF (malolactic fermentation) or carbonic maceration, try tossing in, "I find the aggressive delivery of RWH in this Volnay surprisingly muted by the prosto-inhibitors, don't you?" Then smile mysteriously and enjoy, at long last, your red.
And on a more slightly more serious note. This from our Sebastiani representative, Paul Criger...
On sulfites - Good topic. It's one of the most frequently asked questions at wine tastings. I've had people tell me that they don't use sulfites in their wines in Canada (same brand / varietal - different labeling laws). The anti-alcohol folks got the warning added to the back label about 10 or 12 years ago. I'm convinced if it weren't there, no one would bring it up. Once upon a time I understand winemakers / cellar rats used the stuff freely. They are more judicious now because sulfury isn't a positive descriptor. I mostly get the "red wine gives me headaches" comment from women at tastings. I was with someone from France one time and we discussed it. He told me that he hears women in France complain that white wine gives them headaches!?! I was told that the headaches are caused by histamine sensitivity as well. Additionally, I have been told that there are more sulfites in any dried fruit that you buy than in most wines.
Finally - you can always tell the sulfite free wine by it's brown tint.
March 12, 2003
