A Mark Finch “mostly under $10” wine review

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Columbia Valley, Washington $12
Columbia Crest does a great job of making mass quantities of reasonably-priced, drinkable wines in addition to such higher-end stars as the Walter Clore Reserve, their Bordeaux-style red blend. Their lower-priced Grand Estates wines often get lots of attention, since they are frequently awarded 90-point scores by the wine press.

Flying under the radar this vintage is the Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, damned by the faint praise of its 89 rating delivered by Wine Spectator. That shouldn't hold you back from trying it, though — bear in mind that 89 is at the top of the "Very Good" range, after all.

Unlike many young wines, this one doesn't require a decanter to make it palatable. It's perfectly drinkable right out of the bottle, although you might get delayed in taking the first sip by taking time to enjoy its fruity, aromatic nose. The palate practically bursts with dark ripe berries and a bit of chocolate, and the body is medium to full. Tannins are so soft that they are nearly imperceptible, making this an excellent, crowd-pleasing, easy drinker. At $12 per bottle it’s an outstanding bargain, even if it misses that "Outstanding" rating by a point.

What the Wine Critics Thought: Wine Spectator 89 Points
Supple and inviting. A softer style of Cabernet that weaves milk chocolate and spice flavors through the dark berry and currant flavors, mingling effectively on the finish. Drink now through 2012. 200,000 cases made. –HS

You can read more of Mark's reviews and thoughts about food and wine at WineCanine.

April 29, 2009